THE LOOKBOOK

Swimwear photographed as it is worn — in cold water, in reed beds and on grey British beaches rather than on a white background. The point of the edit below is to show how the main silhouettes actually sit on different bodies, because that is the thing a product photograph on a mannequin never tells you.

**The high-neck one-piece** A zip or high scoop front with a full back. The most supportive silhouette and the one that moves least, which is why it dominates in open water. Look for a bonded rather than stitched shoulder seam.

**The scoop-back one-piece** A square or scoop neckline with an open back. Flattering and cool to wear, but the back opening is where a cheap suit gives itself away — the elastic should be enclosed, not topstitched on.

**The classic swimsuit, in colour** A saturated colour is the hardest test of dye quality. Chlorine and ultraviolet light both attack pigment, and a suit that fades in one season was dyed cheaply.

**Sports-luxe cuts** Thick straps, wide side panels and an elastic underband. Designed to stay put in surf; the double layer through the body is what does the sculpting, not the cut.

**Two-piece, full coverage** A bikini with a proper underband and a mid-rise bottom. More adjustable than a one-piece and considerably easier to size, since the halves can differ.

**The triangle top** Adjustable at the neck and back, which makes it the most size-forgiving top there is. It offers the least support, so the fabric weight matters more than usual.

**High-leg bottoms** A cut that elongates the leg line and, in practice, stays put better than a low-rise brief when you are actually swimming.

**Cheeky-cut bottoms** Less coverage at the back, double-lined at the front. Popular for warm-weather wear; the lining is what stops the fabric going transparent when wet.

**Colour-blocked one-piece** Panelling is structural as well as decorative: the seams between panels are where a maker can add support without adding boning or wire.

**The scoop neck, in red** A wide scoop distributes weight across the shoulders rather than concentrating it on narrow straps — the difference is obvious after an hour in the water.

**Swimsuit as swimwear** Cut for swimming rather than sunbathing: higher neck, full back, minimal hardware. Nothing to dig in, nothing to come undone.

**Cold-water swimming** Year-round outdoor swimming has changed what people ask of a suit — warmth matters less than most assume, but fit and secure straps matter far more.

**Layering over swimwear** A linen overshirt is the classic answer: breathable, naturally absorbent, and it dries without holding salt the way cotton jersey does.

**Bright two-piece** Yellow and orange dyes are the first to go in strong sun. Rinsing in cold fresh water immediately after swimming does more to preserve colour than anything else.

**Swimwear in cold water** British open water, which is the setting most of this photography was made in and a fair test of whether a suit stays where it is put.

**The environment it is worn in** Which is also the environment synthetic textiles shed into — the reason fibre choice in swimwear is not an abstract question.

How to judge a swimsuit from a photograph

Four things are visible if you know where to look. The lining: a suit photographed wet that has not gone translucent is double-lined through the body. The elastic: on a well-made suit it is enclosed within a folded and bonded edge, so the leg and back openings look smooth rather than corrugated. The seams: flatlock or bonded seams lie flat against the skin, while a serged overlock seam stands proud and will chafe. And the hardware: rings, sliders and clasps should be coated metal or moulded nylon, never bare metal, which corrodes in salt water and stains the fabric around it.

Getting the fit right

Swimwear is cut close because it has to be — a suit that fits loosely dry will fit badly wet, since the fabric relaxes as it absorbs water. Straps should sit flat without digging in and without gaping when you raise your arms; the leg openings should follow the crease of the hip rather than cutting across it; and the back of a one-piece should stay put when you bend forward. If it does not, it will not stay put in the water either. The size guide covers measuring in detail.

Making it last

Rinse in cold fresh water as soon as you are out, every time — salt and chlorine both attack elastane, and the damage is cumulative. Do not wring it; press the water out and dry it flat in the shade, since direct sun degrades both elastic and dye. Keep it away from rough surfaces such as pool edges and boat decks, which is where most snags come from. And rotate between two suits if you swim often, because elastane needs a day to recover its shape. Done properly, a good suit lasts five seasons; done badly, one.

The garments photographed here are archive editorial imagery, shown to illustrate cut and construction. This is a reference page, not a shop — nothing on this site is for sale and no piece shown is available to order.